Feb. 2 - So where exactly is Cayambe???

Today was my first expedition outside of Quito. I joined four other students from the school, Kat, Anna, Lee and Wendy, and headed out to Cayambe. Now I have to admit, my guide book said very little about the town, so I decided I would follow the other people in my group as they probably knew more than I did....as it turns out they didn't.

The first hurdle was trying to find a bus to Cayambe. If you thought the bus system in the city was complicated, the intercity bus system makes it look like a cake walk. I'll describe the experience of travelling on the bus later. For now, let's just assume we found the correct bus and were squeezed into our seats. Now I mean squeezed into the seats. The average height of an Ecuadorian is about 5 feet and I'm 6'2", so needless to say, it was a tight fit.

The drive up to Cayambe was beautiful with rolling green mountains which you have to go up and down in order to get to where you want to go. Cayambe is only 67km away from Quito, but due to the mountains it took 2.5 hours to get there. Once we arrived, our adventure began when we were dropped on the side of the road at an intersection.

From what we understood, Cayambe is the flower capital of Ecuador and has a wonderful national park where you can walk around the volcano. This intersection was definitely not the flower capital of Ecuador and there was no volcano in site. After reading our books a bit, we finally approached someone who told us to get on the bus beside us and it would take us to Cayambe, which we understood was the volcano, also by the name of Cayambe. Well it turns out the bus took us to the town of Cayambe instead.

We got off the bus at another street corner and not knowing where we were, we asked again where the park was located. We got directions to the park and when we arrived at the park, we discovered we were actually at the town's main square - a lovely little park .... definitely not the national park we were looking for. So yet again we ask for directions to the park and are told it's 36km away and would cost about $40 to get there. We were also informed that, yes we could walk around the volcano, but it is a multi day hike and is one of the hardest mountains to climb in Ecuador. Needless to say, we opted out of this option (and vowed to read more about where we were going before we went tomorrow).

After reading again about what was in the town to do (we still haven't seen any evidence about the flowers aside from greenhouses around the town) we decided to go visit the Cochasqui Archaeological site, home of pyramids that were constructed by the Cara civilization, before the arrival of the Incas. We approached a taxi to take us there, but they told us they were only for in town use, so we had to hire a Cambiobia (I will have to check the spelling later), which is little more than a pickup truck with an tarp over it to keep us protected from the sun.

We climbed into the back of the pick-up truck (being the nice guy I am, I took the floor giving the rest of them the seats). This was a unique experience. Not only did we go on the highway, but the tailgate was made out of wood and did not close. The portion that was permanently closed, was not held together with very much. When we reached the turn off for Cochasqui we had to drive along a dusty dirt road that was filled with potholes for about 8km. I think most of you can imagine how I felt sitting on the wood floor driving along that bumpy road going higher into the mountains.

When we arrived, we climbed out of the truck only to find we were standing by a random house that was empty. The driver informed us this was the principal site and he would drive us to the secondary site for an extra $5. As we looked at this house, we knew there was no way there were any pyramids there so we opted to pay the extra $5 to get to the secondary site, knowing full well he was just trying to get more money out of us and the next stop was the actual site (we didn't pay the extra $5 in the end).

The next stop was the principle site for the pyramids and consisted of an area covering maybe 2 square kilometers holding about 10 pyramides and another 10 mounds at a height of about 3,100 meters. Once we paid our admission price ($2 more than Ecuadorians have to pay) we were given a tour by an archaeologist who worked there. He took us for an hour walk around the different mounds explaining the significance of the sites and how they were constructed. All of the pyramids were constructed in the same fashion. The largest of the pyramids had a ramp about 200 feet long that lead directly to the top of a flat pyramid (today no more than a large mound that's about 2,000 square feet in size) where religious ceremonies and astrological readings were taken. The shape of the pyramids was not very impressive, but the size of them and the number of them was most impressive. More impressive was that from these sites the Cara tribe was able to create accurate solar and lunar calendars.

Once we finished our tour, the truck driver took us back to the Pan-America highway where we were dropped off. We stood on the side of the road and flagged a bus to Quito (no need for bus stops anywhere in the country....you just get on where you stand).

That night I went out again with Lee and Meredith, the volunteer at the language school that helped me on my first day. Now I feel I should take a mintue to explain Meredith. Meredith, who is from just north of Sarnia in Ontario and also happens to be very good friends with one of my two best friends from Carletion, Marcie (shout out to Marcie and Jen here....I love both of you girls). So needless to say Meredith and I had a few things in common and quite enjoyed telling stories about Marcie. I can't believe how small a world it is.

Jan. 29 - Feb. 1 - Back in the doghouse

Well, after my eventful first day in language classes, I managed to settle into a routine. Susy finally gave me a set of keys to the house and let me go to school on my own (after the first day that is). But she did call daily to give directions on how to get home. How I love Susy .... I'll talk about her in another post.

The mornings were pretty much the same. Every day I would go back to my kennel and study Spanish for about 4 hours. Even though the lessons were not filled with new material, it was very good to practice everything to make sure I understood it. The only problem was that on Wednesday, the cat that was living in the kennel was having some digestion problems and we got a good laugh at how much the cat actually stank. All in all it was a good experience to be living in the kennel as it just added to the story and my teacher was very good and had me practice everything many times.

The afternoons were a different story. I had a different teacher in the afternoons, Adriana. The way things worked in the afternoon is we would go out on the town to explore the city and practice my Spanish. This was a great way to learn and I probably got the most out of the school with these afternoon classes. Adriana was also very knowledgeable about Quito and quite enjoyed my sence of humour (most of the teachers did) and suprisingly it was understood, even with the language barrier.

The fist trip was Tuesday afternoon when we went to the Museo de la Ciudad (Museum of the City). This Museum is located in a former mental hospital in old town Quito that had laid unused for many years before being restored into this wonderful museum. It covered the history of the city and surrounding area from when the native inhabitants first arrived in Qutio to present day.

Upon leaving the museum, Adriana told me about the Monastery across the street (Monasterio de Carmen Alto) where the nuns sell their wears through a revolving door so as to remain secluded. Through this door they sell bread, traditional sweets, brewed elixirs to help all that ails you, and mistela....a traditional Ecuadorian spirit. Adriana also told me about another monastery in the city. Here when the nuns first join the convent they spend 2 years in solitary confinement and once finished are only allowed one hour a day to either watch TV or talk.

The Wednesday afternoon trip was to El Mercado Santa Clara, one of the main markets in town where Adriana was going to teach me about the different foods and visit some shops around the market to better understand the crafts. It was extremely fascinating to see all the new-to-me fruit that is grown in Ecuador. She had me buy the most interesting fruit to eat, basically so she could see my reaction. The one I ate with her (I don't know the name) had a hard orange shell and was about the size of a pear. Inside it was filled with slimy grey seeds that were very crunchy when you ate them. They tasted wonderful, but the texture left something to be desired.

One of the things that fascinated me the most about the market was the number of medicinal plants they sell. They appear to brew many different plants in a tea to help with everything. They sell it pre-packaged for high blood pressure, arthritis, gout, and digestive problems. I learned lots of "colourful" words as Adriana she grew increasingly frustrated with not knowing the names of many of these plants.

After the market we went up to the university and had a very in-depth discussion about the political differences between Canada and Ecuador. It has given me a greater understanding of the issues in Ecuador, and they make the issues in Canada seem very unimportant. The most interesting thing about the conversation is that I might not know enough Spanish to ask for a bottle of water, but I was able to understand the complexities of politics!

Thursday's trip was to the Museum of Water (Yaku, the native word for water). The view from this hilltop museum overlooking the city was magnificent. As I still didn't understand the bus system, I have no idea how we got there, but it was well worth it. The main focus of the museum is to educate people about the importance of water in the world and why they should conserve and protect the water. The entire museum is explored with a Spanish speaking guide, so it was a good thing I already knew about the water cycle so I could grasp a few things that they talked about. Even though I didn't understand everything, listening to the song of the Spanish language was very useful. The most interesting exhibit at the museum was an art display where they took pictures of ice crystals and the photographers selected music that best fit with the mood of the pictures.

The trip on Friday was to the Basilica. This is the newest church in the old town of Quito and is built in the gothic style of many European churches. The gargoyles are not your traditional animals, but are all animals found in the Galapagos Islands. Construction started in the 1920s and has yet to be finished due to monetary constraints. You can see that some of the stained glass windows are broken due to not having enough money to repair them. With that said, I would hardly have noticed the construction was not complete if Adriana had not pointed it out.

One of the main attractions of the Basilica is the ability to climb to the top of the towers, the highest of any church in South America. As many of you know, I'm not the biggest fan of heights, but I did my best to scale the towers. The first tower you come to is approached by walking along wooden planks (I still don't think they are safe) that cross the ceiling of the church, then you climb up a very steep ladder to get outside on the roof. Then, if you have the guts, there are ladders that go up the outside of the tower to a viewing platform. There was no way I was going to do that ...... so I watched everyone else. The second tower went much higher. You climb inside the clock tower up spiral staircases until you reached the clock. From there you take ladders (inside mind you) up to where the church bells are (which you can ring) and then up higher to another viewing platform, maybe 10 or 12 stories high. The view from there was magnificent.

That evening I was awake enough to join the other students for a night on the town. We went down to Mariscal Sucre (new part of town) to have some drinks and go dancing. Personally, I think I'm a good dancer, but compared to Ecuadorians, I'm white to the bone. Everyone is very musical and rhythm is in their blood. As it was Carnival, they were also dancing in the street, banging drums, walking on stilts and dressed in festive costumes. I knew I would enjoy Carnival, but I didn't know how much.

Jan. 28 - Spanish isn't just for the dogs

Yet agin I started the day off knowing nothing (yes, there is a pattern here....good thing Nova Scotians are laid back). All I knew is I have a class today staring at 9. I didn't know how to get there, what level I am at, where it is, size of the class or if I signed up for the 4 or 7 hour option (registration for the volunteer project said "Do you want Spanish classes?"). So after breakfast (today was fresh homemade guava juice) my protector, Susy, took me to school. And for any of those who want to make fun of me for being 5 years old, yes, she did pack my lunch and did give me an apple. With my limited Spanish I wasn't sure if it was for me or my teacher.

After an hour bus ride in traffic we arrived at the school. Susy didn't even give me enough time to catch my bearings so yet again I have no idea where I am. Once I'm at the school Susy told me she will come back to pick me up at 4:30 after school (I think now I'm 3 years old) and I'm whisked off to class instantly because it started at 8:30, not 9. But in Ecuador, time is relative.

I thought I had prepared myself well for the learning conditions in Ecuador. I wasn't expecting much. I figured I would have a room with a table and some chairs for everyone to sit in. I wasn't picky on the type of chairs. Pretty basic right? Well I had set my standards too high. I was quickly rushed out the front door, taken out back and quickly understood this organization. They had three branches of business; volunteer work, Spanish as a second language and a dog kennel. The kennel wasn't full this week so my class was to be in the dog kennel. If I studied hard and was a good boy I would move into the main house next week. I must admit, if I were a dog I would have been very impressed. As a student, that wasn't the case. But it made for a good way to break the ice with the other students.

So under many first-place dog show ribbons, I sat down at the plastic patio set and met my instructor, Jacqueline, for my one-on-one instruction. At first she didn't believe me when I told her I knew the basics ..... and after my test she still didn't believe me and made me start at the beginning. I was not impressed as I spent the entire morning practicing how to match the gender of the noun with adjectives. Instead of getting me started with a list of vocabulary (the main area of weakness at this point) she kept asking me to keep talking and then telling me I was wrong without correcting me.

When I finished the morning session I spoke with the coordinator and filled out some forms only to learn I was not registered for the afternoon sessions. Although Susy was picking me up in 4 hours it didn't phase me in the least, even though I didn't know where I lived, where I was, what was around me nor did I have keys or a phone number to call Susy (not that I would know enough Spanish to say anything). I'd figure something out. Just before I left I was told by the receptionist that Susy was going to come by at 2pm to pick me up.

While I waited I was able to explore the house/school and was very impressed. They were very organized and visibly frustrated with the limited amount of information Volunteer Visions provided them (they even had me down as American). They took the time with me to inquire about what I was looking for in a placement and any concerns I might have about my family. It appears they are also the organization that arranges everything for Volunteer Visions in Ecuador. To top it all off the person I was dealing with was from London, Ontario...a fellow Canadian.

When Susy arrived, we went to the bank and while she was there I went in search of the internet, only to find it was not working in the city centre. Instead I went for a walk in the nearby park (Parque La Coralina) which had the best playground I have ever seen. You name it and it was there, including real tractors, steam rollers, heavy artillary and a plane about the size of a CD-10 painted in funky colours with a happy face on the front and slide for the exit.

On my way back to the bank I went to a mall to check out the supermarket (it's basically the same...even the same brands) and came across probably the most interesting thing I will see the entire trip ... an ice hockey rink inside the mall with people practicing their figure skating. I fully intend to go with some students from school just to be able to say I went ice skating within 30km of the Equator.

In the evening some girls from school (there is only one other guy at the school) and I went to see a really bad movie...but it was in English and they all spoke English. It was a lot of fun to be with young people and it put a lot of my concerns about meeting people at ease. As well, they are all very interesting people so the conversation was enjoyable. The only problem with the trip (aside from Susy trying to explain how to get there and gave me 5 routes, none of which I understood), was when the movie was over, they all started telling stories about getting robbed. Being a true Canadian Gentleman, I waited with the women until all of them were safe in a cab. This left me alone, so I ran into the first cab I found to get home where I knew it was safe with Susy.

Jan. 27 - Old town Quito with random ¨Chicas¨ Susy picked up

According to my Ecuadorian Mother (Susy), today was supposed to be a relaxing day. I slept in and took it easy in the morning as I had been told the altitude would kill you if you took things too hard, and it's true. I managed to get winded just standing in the kitchen talking to Susy (that could also be because she still hasn't figured out I don't speak Spanish and is talking even faster today).

Somehow I managed to figure out, after Susy said the same thing 10 times, that we were going to have breakfast and then go downtown to vist the old city; in particular La Ronda.

Breakfast was my first introduction to Ecuadorian food. It consisted of some bread with "Queso de la mesa"(the house cheese - the cheese version of house wine), fried eggs, "tomate del arbol" juice (I've never seen the fruit before, but the juice was homemade of course) and the finest coffee available in Ecuador .... Nescafe instant coffee. While breakfast was being prepared Susy managed to find out I liked honey, so I was given some and let me tell you - even the honey is different down here. Slightly bitter.

After I cleared the table we headed out on the town. I'm only allowed to set and clear the table....don't worry Mom, I'm going to keep trying to do more things. Susy won't even accept how I make my bed and redoes it when I'm not looking. I should remind you that I have no idea where the house is located and haven't had time to look at the map, so I'm completely at Susy's mercy.

Let me tell you, the buses here are very interesting to say the least. On some you pay when you get on, on others when you get off, and some won't let you off unless you can show a ticket to say you paid. Some buses are city run, others are private, and as far as I can see there's no way to tell which is which. The doors never close and a guy hangs out calling out the route. Since the doors are always open, if you don't get off fast enough you have to jump. To top it off, half the bus stops don't have anything to indicate it's a bus stop (one was even in the middle of the intersection). As for the routes, I can't figure them out. Susy told me at one stop, two weeks ago the traffic went in the other direction. It's hopeless.

If that doesn't sound like enough of an adventure, Susy can change create one. She appeared to know everyone and told them all that she was taking this Canadian around town (I forgot to mention, she had been told I was American and once she found out I was Canadian her attitude towards me changed .... she even started speaking English to me). She got in an argument with a complete stranger about which mountain the teleferiQo (gondola ride) was on. It turns out this "argument" was actually a friendly discussion, but to an outsider all conversations here look like arguments.

Somehow, through all this commotion, Susy managed to pick up four girls from Chile. They ended up being our travel companions for the rest of the afternoon. (Quick side note, any single guys out there who need a good wing man, I'll give you Susy's number).

So armed with my lifeline (aka Susy) and my four Chicas, we wandered around the old town. La Ronda was the first stop. It is a beautiful street lined with Colonial buildings (typical of this area) some as many as 500 years old. On the walls in between small shops and restaurants are tiles of famous Ecuadorians. When we reached the top of the street, between breaths, I managed to ask Susy what the statue was at the top of the hill. Without skipping a beat she wisked all of us into a cab (5 women in the back and me in the front) and off we went to the top of the hill.

La Virgen de Quito is a magnificent statue perched atop the hill where she can watch over Quito. From there you can see the entire city, including the 22 churches in the old city. It is a wonderful place to see how Quito is oriented. To the west are three mountains with smaller mountains to the east. Quito stretches for 22km within this 4km wide valley. It is very long and narrow. While up on the hill, we were entertained by some indigenous children who performed some traditional dances for everyone by the statue.

Once back in the old city we had lunch on la Ronda in a small restaurant before continuing our trek through the streets, stopping in the Plaza Santo Domingo and Plaza San Francisco to watch the performers, enjoy the architecture and fight off children trying to shine our shoes (and my hiking boots). One of the most remarkable stops was La Comanñia de Jesus, Ecuador's most ornate church, and the most beautiful church I have ever seen. Legend has it that 7 tons of gold were used to decorate the walls, and you can tell when you are inside. It is as if someone went in and turned the entire church to gold.

We parted ways with my Chicas in the Plaza Grande, home of the President and numerous daily gatherings of the people (mostly protests). Once home, while Susy made dinner, I took a shower. Simple enough, right? You forget that I'm the one taking the shower. There was absolutely no hot water and very little water pressure, I'm talking drops here, the kind that drive you nuts in the middle of the night. Every now and then I would get a 10 sec burst of water, which would disappear for a few minutes. After 20 minutes I was finaly finished. Being who I am I did't say anything - after all you put toilet paper in the waste bin here, not down the toilet - so this water problem must be normal and I'll adapt.

Well it turns out electricity is very expensive, so Susy heats up the water for an hour before you have a shower. Being the nice person Susy is, she turned the water off so it would heat up for my shower and forgot to turn it on again. Obviously she had a great laugh at this Canadian who showers with no hot water and told everyone for the next couple of days. I'm sure it doesn't surprise anyone at home to find out that within the first 24 hours, I have become Ecuador's newest joke. You can now go into any bar in Quito and hear "Did you hear the joke about this Canadian....."